Fashion Forward | Sorting post-consumer textile waste from multiple sources

Summary

Textile waste is not the same in every country. As part of the European Fashion Forward project, Coleo examines how it is collected, prepared and managed in Spain, France and Portugal, and tests a common method for sorting it by composition and colour, making it easier to prepare for recycling.

Description

GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE PILOT

  • Pilot name: Sorting post-consumer textile waste from multiple sources
  • Responsible partner(s): COLEO RECYCLING S.L. With Wastex Technologies providing external technological support.
  • Location:
    • COLEO plant in Galicia, Spain.
  • Duration:
    • July 2025 – December 2026

 

CONTEXT AND CHALLENGE

Post-consumer textile waste is a highly heterogeneous waste stream whose characteristics and management can vary considerably between regions. Spain, France and Portugal have different collection systems, available infrastructure, organisations involved, sorting models and existing textile waste streams.

The pilot takes these different starting points into account and examines how each country’s particular circumstances affect the waste that ultimately reaches a sorting plant. It therefore studies representative streams from all three countries, considering their origin and collection system as well as their form, quality, composition and prior preparation.

Based on this analysis, the pilot aims to establish whether waste from different contexts can be processed using a common sorting method based on composition and colour, producing fractions prepared for recycling.

An important requirement is that the material must first have been sorted for reuse, so that Coleo works specifically with the fraction unsuitable for reuse. This allows the pilot to focus on the next stage of waste management: characterisation and sorting for recycling.

The pilot therefore not only evaluates sorting technology but also compares the starting points and realities of post-consumer textile waste management across the SUDOE area, identifying differences, barriers and aspects that could be harmonised or improved.

PILOT OBJECTIVE

 The objective is to analyse and compare how post-consumer textile waste is managed in Spain, France and Portugal, taking account of each country’s particular circumstances: collection systems, stakeholders, available infrastructure, prior sorting and the characteristics of the resulting waste streams.

Building on this analysis, the pilot aims to establish whether waste from different contexts can be processed using a common method for characterisation and sorting by composition and colour.

The ultimate aim is to generate comparable knowledge across the three countries, identify differences, barriers and good practices, and draw lessons that can help improve systems for preparing and sorting textile waste for recycling in the SUDOE area.

 

PROPOSED SOLUTION / INNOVATION

The pilot combines an analysis of the situation in each country with an industrial demonstration of post-consumer textile waste sorting.

First, it identifies and analyses the systems and stakeholders involved in textile waste management in Spain, France and Portugal, selecting representative waste streams from each country.

Second, this waste is transported to Coleo’s plant and processed using the same method. After non-textile items have been removed, the material is sorted using automated technology based on near-infrared (NIR) spectroscopy and machine vision, producing different fractions according to composition and colour.

Using a common method makes it possible to compare results and identify the extent to which differences between countries affect the characteristics of the waste arriving for sorting.

MAIN ACTIVITIES

  • Analysis and identification of stakeholders and post-consumer textile waste streams in Spain, France and Portugal, taking account of the particular features of each country’s waste management systems.
  • Contact with collection and waste management organisations to identify representative streams suitable for the pilot.
  • Logistical coordination and receipt at Coleo’s plant, maintaining batch traceability by country, weight and characteristics.
  • Preparation of the material by removing footwear, packaging, accessories and other non-textile items outside the scope of the sorting process.
  • Automated sorting by composition and colour using NIR spectroscopy and machine vision.
  • Characterisation and analysis of the results obtained for each waste stream.
  • Comparison of the three countries, identifying differences, barriers, lessons learned and possible improvements in waste management and preparation for sorting.

 

EXPECTED RESULTS / IMPACT

The pilot will provide a comparative overview of post-consumer textile waste from Spain, France and Portugal and a better understanding of how different collection and management systems affect the characteristics of the material.

At a technical level, it will test the application of a common sorting method based on composition and colour to waste from different contexts.

At a regional level, the results will help identify differences, barriers and good practices across the three countries, as well as aspects of waste preparation and management that could be improved or harmonised.

The knowledge generated may serve as a reference for public authorities, waste managers and other textile value-chain stakeholders interested in developing systems for sorting textile waste for recycling.

Estado: On going
Announcement: 1st call
Priority : 2 - Promoting social cohesion and territorial and demographic balance in Sudoe through innovation and the transformation of productive sectors
Objetivo: 1.4 Desarrollar capacidades para la especialización inteligente, la transición industrial y el emprendimiento